Posts Tagged ‘ bunny dates ’

How should I introduce my current rabbit to my new rabbit?

Rabbits are very territorial and do not easily welcome a newcomer.  The most important element of creating a successful pair is to start with two neutered/spayed rabbits.  You need to expect a transition period where each rabbit is maintained separately, while they get to konw each other.  The basic process of introducing two rabbits involves a neutral territory (some place neither rabbit has been before), small amounts of time and close supervision.  Normal behaviors for introductions include:

• Love at first sight:  If this occurs, you can try them in the space they’re going to live in.  If it’s still good, then they’re fine, you have nothing else to do.
• Tentative friendship: If this occurs, just watch them when they’re together, keep them separate when you’re not around, and if no fighting occurs, they’ll eventually become friends.
• Amorous behavior: If the (neutered) male mounts the female and the female permits it, this is usually a sign that the relationship will go well.  If she does mind, and runs, it is still not usually a problem.  If she minds and becomes aggressive towards him, then you must prepare for a lengthier introduction period.
• One chasing, one running:  If this occurs, just make sure the one running doesn’t fight back and doesn’t get hurt.  If neither of these things occurs, then just watch and wait.  If one gets hurt, separate them and go slower and if one fights back, then you must prepare for a lengthier introduction period.
• Fighting: When two rabbits fight, then you must prepare for a lengthy introduction period.

Work with your rabbits every day, for at least twenty minutes or so a day, and when you’re not working with them, keep them in eye contact of each other.  Start with extreme scenarios and gradually move to less extreme.  Do one extreme and one less extreme scenario every day.  The more often you work with them, the quicker the progress.

How do I introduce my new rabbit to other resident pets?

Rabbits usually get along with cats, guinea pigs and well-behaved dogs.  In fact, many times the rabbits will end up bossing the resident animals around.  The ideal way to introduce the rabbit would be to confine or leash the dog/cat adn let the rabbit investigate at its own pace.  Interactions between rabbits adn other pets should always be supervised.

Dawn Sailer-Fleeger in collaboration with Erica Deighton
Part 2 of a 2 part series

*** If you missed the first part of this series, please read A Kinder, Gentler Approach to Bunny Bonding.

There are guidelines when bonding rabbits to maximize the chance for success. Consider reviewing bunny bonding basics in the House Rabbit Handbook or http://www.rabbit.org/faq/sections/introductions.html.

There are three parts to creating a successful pair:

1. finding a compatible rabbit,
2. providing on-going support to make the pairing work in their forever home,
3. providing assistance when there seem to be irreconcilable differences.

This second article assumes step 1 is complete and provides strategies to make the pairing work in the forever home.

Interim Housing:

If possible, house the rabbits in a room of the house where they will not ultimately live. House them side-by-side when not on a date, positioning them such that they cannot bite noses through adjoining housing walls. This is an extension of building relaxation between the rabbits when you are not there to supervise. Observe their body language – flopped out body postures are a very encouraging sign! In the event that the rabbits are stressed, consider placing a cardboard partition in one area to give the stressed rabbit a “break.”

Encourage run time in this shared territory; however, set up a double barrier around the cage of the rabbit that is not out for run time. This will minimize aggressive behavior developing between the rabbits. Just like in the bunny dates, we are trying to build relaxation between rabbits when one rabbit is stationary and
one rabbit is moving.

To encourage familiarity with the smell of the other rabbit, consider switching housing spaces when the other rabbit is out for run time. This is not mandatory when creating pairs, but has been used successfully by many people over the years. Assess the reaction of your rabbits. If defensive behaviors start to form and the rabbits become tense, do not switch housing.

Bunny Dating at Home:

It is important for the bun parent to be neutral and calm. No bias, no expectations, accepting the situation as it unfolds. If life is stressful, the rabbits will be able to sense this. Hold off on bunny dates until you feel less stressed, as this will help everyone in the long run!

The most important part of making the pairing work at home is to use neutral territory. For a rabbit that has firmly entrenched himself in your home, you may need to be a little creative. Use rooms that your rabbit has never been in and claimed as “his” (i.e. kitchen, bathroom, extra bedroom). Rearrange the furniture in a room that your rabbit does not venture into often, creating the illusion of neutral territory. Even consider using a friend’s place if you hit a stumbling block. One thing to remember: once a place has been used for dating, it is no longer neutral. You may need to mix up dating spaces, especially if the rabbits have a negative association in one place.

Use the approach detailed in the first article progressing to rabbit in motion. Keep the dates to a length where they always end on a positive note, lengthening the dates as the rabbits allow it. In the event that the rabbits seem tense, end the date after a few minutes, before a fight occurs. Five minutes of interaction ending on a positive note is better than 45 minutes of interaction ending with a fight. If a fight ensues, it is back to square one, developing trust again.

Often, before you see a lot of self-selected snuggling, you could see a period in which the rabbits spend time together sort of at a distance, doing elaborate displays of ignoring each other. Don’t let this discourage you; the rabbits are basically checking each other out, encoding normal behaviors and signaling their own benign intent. It’s an important learning and trust consolidation period for them.

Just like with human relationships, there will probably be some points of irritation in which each rabbit has to learn that the other does things that frustrates/threatens them, and knows not to react. For example, chasing is okay as long as the running does not turn into nipping, which will turn into a fight. Mounting, a normal rabbit dominance behavior, is okay as long as the rabbits face each other and the subordinate rabbit tolerates being mounted. Be ready to intervene if the rabbits begin to show signs of stress.

Once the rabbits have a solid basis of trust and goodwill, they can tolerate these points of learning via friction without the risk of things spiraling out of control and ending in a fight.

Overcoming Defensiveness:

Do you find yourself in a situation where one bun is “ready” and the other is still “defensive”? The defensive one can sometimes shift if given comfort by the other rabbit when he feels unsettled. This approach is successful if they already have a good base of relaxation together. This is where you can assess the value of using a low level of anxiety to deflect their arousal away from hostility and into turning to the other for comfort (i.e. pet pen outside in shade, car ride, bathtub-cuddle, or a session in a soft cozy container on the washer/dryer—all situations must have an open top for you to intervene at a moment’s notice). Be sensitive to the “defensive” rabbit, as some rabbits cannot handle some strategies. Also note, many rabbit pairings do not need any of this intervention. The strategy to use requires individual individual assessment.

After returning from a low level anxiety situation, place the calm rabbits in neutral territory in the house and assess their interaction. Be ready to intervene for any defensive behaviors. Continue the date in neutral territory, ending on a positive note.

Living Together Permanently:

When the bunny dates are going well, the more time you can dedicate, the better. Even when they are getting along, only let the rabbits together when they are directly supervised. This way you can intervene immediately if they begin to squabble. It is important not to go too fast, though, since you’re in the home stretch!

You will need to use your judgment about when you can let the rabbits be together unsupervised. If they peacefully coexist in neutral territory for several hours at a time without any intervention, consider sleeping on the sofa or floor next to them overnight. If you’re a light sleeper, you’ll still be able to intervene if a squabble breaks out. Continue this pattern for several days until you are satisfied that the rabbits truly get along.

Be sensitive to the placement of the permanent housing. If the rabbits need to be housed in a room that was “claimed” by the resident rabbit, change the housing arrangement in ways that get them re-focused in good ways: consider rearranging furniture to create the illusion of neutral territory, clean the carpeting, mop the wood floors. Add new toys and hidey spaces to give the rabbits space where they can be alone if they choose to.

If there are other rabbits in residence, place the new couple in a room separate from others until their bond is cemented. Only place them around other rabbits if this does not create tension for the pair.

Bunny bonding can be a lot of work, but it is definitely worth the effort. The sight of a rabbit couple snuggled together, grooming each other contentedly, really warms your heart!

Dawn Sailer-Fleeger in Collaboration with Erica Deighton

Part 1 of a 2 part series

There are guidelines when bonding rabbits to maximize the chance for success. Consider reviewing bunny bonding basics in the House Rabbit Handbook or at www.rabbit.org/faq/sections/introductions.html.

Indiana HRS has adopted 30+ rabbits into pairing situations. There are two parts to creating a successful pair:  finding a compatible rabbit and providing ongoing support to make the pairing work in their forever home.

This first article will cover finding a compatible rabbit. We start this process with a “bunny date” facilitated by one of our experienced volunteers.  With each bunny date, we bring all eligible neutered bachelors or spayed bachelorettes to a single location. We start by using neutral territory, setting the rabbits up in a pet pen with a clean litterbox not used by either rabbit. We cover the floor with a sheet or blanket so that the rabbits have secure footing. Our facilitator is calm, balanced, and focused on the rabbits participating in the date. No bias, no expectations, accepting the situation as it unfolds: after all, rabbits will behave like rabbits!

The IHRS approach is very hands on and focuses on positive, pleasant interactions. Place both rabbits in the pen, establishing contact by petting each rabbit with a relaxing touch and speaking with them in a calm, gentle voice until they are settled.  Switch hands and continue petting the rabbits, so that they become aware of the other rabbit’s scent. Gradually ease up on the petting and assess each rabbit’s reaction to the presence of the other rabbit. For a rabbit that is very alert and concerned, continue petting until settled again. If aggressive behaviors develop (i.e. chasing or attempted nipping), intervene immediately, picking up the closest rabbit. Discontinue the bunny date with this candidate and continue with other eligible rabbits.

Once both rabbits are settled and relaxed, position the rabbits so that their bodies are next to one another and continue petting. The idea is to maximize exposure to the feel and smell of each other, and to start setting up progrooming positions. Once the rabbits are relaxed while lying next to each other, lighten the touch of the petting and assess their reaction.  A rabbit that leans into his bunbride and nuzzles her are great signs. Keep your hands ready to continue petting with a heavier touch if defensive or aggressive moves start to unfold. In the event these behaviors do appear after continued petting, intervene as previously described, and discontinue the bunny date with this rabbit to continue with other eligible bunnies.

When the rabbits are able to become alert, aware that there is a bunny-body next to them, and not lose relaxation, allow one of them to get up and explore while the other remains with you observing.  The idea is to get the stationary rabbit used to the idea that this rabbit-body is also a moving rabbit, and one moving around *them.* It also allows him to begin to observe the other in a relaxed state, acquiring accurate data about normal nonthreatening behaviors. Allow the rabbits to interact, ready to intervene at a moment’s notice. Assess the body language of the dating rabbits: a flopped out posture with legs behind the rabbit is a great sign. Another very positive sign is a rabbit that feels secure enough to groom himself in the presence of his bunbride. If aggressive behaviors develop (i.e. chasing or attempted nipping), intervene immediately as described before.

After the rabbit has met all potential candidates, the IHRS volunteer and rabbit owner confer to determine the best candidates. In the event that there are no eligible candidates, we are very honest, providing this feedback—even if the IHRS foster rabbits are the defensive ones!

Once the “dating pool” has been narrowed, this introduction process is repeated with the rabbit owner. The IHRS volunteer coaches the rabbit owner through the dating process, again focusing on positive, pleasant interactions. When “Mom” or “Dad” facilitate the interactions, the rabbit sometimes has “other ideas” about some of his potential bun brides. That is okay, since IHRS volunteers do not facilitate the bunny dates at home!

During this second phase, the rabbit owner pays attention to his rabbit and the interactions with potential candidates. The rabbits are very clear at communicating who they want to be with! Once the rabbit has chosen his bunbride, we close the adoption. The bunny date can continue in the car on the drive home provided there is someone other than the driver to supervise the rabbits. The rabbits return home and are housed separately until the bonding process is complete.

IHRS provides ongoing support once the rabbits are in their forever home. In our next issue, we will focus on making bunny bonding work at home.

If there are no eligible candidates at this bunny date, we provide this feedback. During the bunny date, we learn a great deal about the prospective bachelor/bachelorette, which enables us to recommend additional rabbits for pairing with more complementary personalities. We don’t give up on finding a companion for a rabbit. Our third article will focus on providing assistance for those who have trouble finding a compatible match. We will draw upon the experience of many volunteers who have successfully created pairs without the use of an initial bunny date.