Posts Tagged ‘ faqs ’

How should I introduce my current rabbit to my new rabbit?

Rabbits are very territorial and do not easily welcome a newcomer.  The most important element of creating a successful pair is to start with two neutered/spayed rabbits.  You need to expect a transition period where each rabbit is maintained separately, while they get to konw each other.  The basic process of introducing two rabbits involves a neutral territory (some place neither rabbit has been before), small amounts of time and close supervision.  Normal behaviors for introductions include:

• Love at first sight:  If this occurs, you can try them in the space they’re going to live in.  If it’s still good, then they’re fine, you have nothing else to do.
• Tentative friendship: If this occurs, just watch them when they’re together, keep them separate when you’re not around, and if no fighting occurs, they’ll eventually become friends.
• Amorous behavior: If the (neutered) male mounts the female and the female permits it, this is usually a sign that the relationship will go well.  If she does mind, and runs, it is still not usually a problem.  If she minds and becomes aggressive towards him, then you must prepare for a lengthier introduction period.
• One chasing, one running:  If this occurs, just make sure the one running doesn’t fight back and doesn’t get hurt.  If neither of these things occurs, then just watch and wait.  If one gets hurt, separate them and go slower and if one fights back, then you must prepare for a lengthier introduction period.
• Fighting: When two rabbits fight, then you must prepare for a lengthy introduction period.

Work with your rabbits every day, for at least twenty minutes or so a day, and when you’re not working with them, keep them in eye contact of each other.  Start with extreme scenarios and gradually move to less extreme.  Do one extreme and one less extreme scenario every day.  The more often you work with them, the quicker the progress.

How do I introduce my new rabbit to other resident pets?

Rabbits usually get along with cats, guinea pigs and well-behaved dogs.  In fact, many times the rabbits will end up bossing the resident animals around.  The ideal way to introduce the rabbit would be to confine or leash the dog/cat adn let the rabbit investigate at its own pace.  Interactions between rabbits adn other pets should always be supervised.

Why spay and neuter rabbits?

• Altered rabbits are healthier and live longer than unaltered rabbits
• Altered rabbits make better companion animals
• Altered rabbits display fewer obnoxious behaviors that humans find annoying or distasteful
• Altered rabbits won’t contribute to the problem of rabbit overpopulation
• Altered rabbits can safely have a friend to play with
• Spaying and neutering for rabbits has become a safe procedure when performed by experienced rabbit veterinarians

Is surgery safe on rabbits?

Surgery can be as safe on rabbits as on any animal.  Unfortunately, the vast majority of veterinarians aren’t experienced with safe rabbit surgery techniques.  Don’t allow a veterinarian with little or no rabbit experience spay or neuter your rabbit.  Using isofluorene as the anesthetic and appropriate surgical and after-surgery techniques, spaying and neutering of rabbits is as safe as for any other animal.

How can I find a veterinarian experienced with rabbits?

If you don’t have other bunny owners to get a referral from, you can evaluate any veterinarian by asking the following questions:

• Ask how many rabbits are seen at the clinic each week (or month).
• Ask if they know which antibiotics are dangerous for rabbits (amoxicillin, lincomycin and clindamycin).
• Ask about preventing hairballs.  Q: “What’s the best way to prevent hairballs?”  A: “Provide your rabbit with hay every day, preferably 24 hours a day.  Provide daily exercise and brush frequently.”
• Ask how many rabbits are spayed and neutered each week (or month).
• Ask if food has to be removed the night before surgery.  The answer should be “no”.  Rabbits should never be fasted.
• What was the success rate?  If any were lost, what was the cause?  90% rate is way too low.  Veterinarians across the country who spay and neuter rabbits for the House Rabbit Society have lost on average less than 1/2 of 1%.
• What anesthetics are used?  Isofluorene is preferred.  Some veterinarians are quite successful with anesthetics other than isofluorene, but the bunny is “hung over” after surgery, which increases the probability that s/he will be slow to start eating again, which can lead to serious problems if not dealt with.
• You might also want to ask which conferences they’ve attended lately that had talks about rabbit medicine and what journals they read.

Be careful not to choose the nearest vet without inquiring about their experience with rabbits.  Paying money for an inexperienced vet can be very costly both to you and to your pet.

At what age should rabbits be spayed or neutered?

Females can be spayed as soon as they sexually mature, usually around 4 months of age, but many veterinarians prfer to wait until they are 6 months old, as surgery is riskier on a younger female rabbit.  Males can be neutered as soon as the testicles descend, usually around 3 1/2 months of age, but many veterinarians prefer to wait until they are 5 months old.

What does the surgery cost?

Most veterinarian charge somewhere between $60 and $180.  Neutering a male is generally less expensive than spaying a female due to the amount of surgery required.

What post-operative care should I expect to give my rabbit?

After surgery, keep the environment quiet so the rabbit doesn’t startle or panic, don’t do anything to encourage acrobatics, but let the rabbit move around at her own pace – she knows what hurts and what doesn’t.

Some veterinarians keep rabbits overnight.  If your veterinarian lets you bring your bunny home the first night, not the following:

• Most males come home after being neutered looking for “supper” – be sure they have pellets, water and some good hay (good, fresh alfalfa is a good way to tempt them to nibble a bit)
• Most females want to be left alone, are not interested in eating at all, and will sit quietly in a back corner of the cage (or wherever in the house they feel they will be bothered the least)

The following morning, or at latest by  the next evening, it is important for the rabbit to be nibbling something.  It doesn’t matter what or how much, as long as she is taking in something, so the digestive tract won’t shut down.  If she isn’t, tempt her with everything possible adn contact your veterinarian for further instructions.

What other health issues should I be concerned about?

No vaccinations are required.  However, rabbits’ teeth grow continuously and need to be checked at least annually by a vet.

Rabbits have sensitive digestive systems.  The best way to maintain it is through a proper diet.  As grazing animals, rabbits need hay constantly to keep their system moving.

Finally, if you notice any marked changes in behavior, including lethargy, lack of appetite, severe diarrhea, sneezing, or nasal discharge, take your rabbit to a veterinarian.

What are the basics of a good house rabbit diet?

A rabbit’s diet should be made up of fresh grass hay (timothy, orchard, brome, or oat), fresh vegetables, water and good quality pellets.  Anything beyond that is a “treat” and should be given in limited quantities (approximately 1 tablespoon per day total).

Is feeding hay important?

Grass hay should be the foundation of your rabbit’s diet as it is essential to a rabbit’s good health, providing roughage, which reduces the danger of hairballs and other blockages.  Hay should be available at all times.  Most rabbits can eat a pile the size of themselves almost every day.

What kinds of veggies should I feed my rabbit?

Rabbits enjoy many fresh greens and vegetables and can have up to 2 cups per 5 pounds of body weight daily.  Most produce is safe to feed your rabbit.  They are likely to particularly enjoy: romaine lettuce, most herbs, broccoli, carrots (and tops), spinach, kale, collard greens and many others.  Try to serve at least three different veggies each day, introducing one new food at a time.  This will help you determine if any particular food is not well tolerated by your rabbit.  AVOID: rhubarb leaves, peas, potatoes, beans, corn, onions and garlic.

What makes a good pellet?

Pellets should make up a small portion of your rabbit’s diet.  Unless your rabbit is under 6 months old, he should get a set amount of pellets daily and not have unlimited access to pellets.  Pellets should be high in fiber (>18%) and low in protein (<14%), calcium (<0.9%) and fat (2%).  Avoid pellet mixes that contain seeds, grains, dried corn, or other colorful additives, as these items can be difficult for your rabbit to digest and have little nutritional value.  It is advisable not to purchase more than 6 weeks worth of feed at a time, as nutritional value degrades over time.

What quantities of food should I feed young adults? (6 months to 1 year)

• Introduce timothy hay, grass hay, and oat hays, decrease alfalfa
• Decrease pellets to 1/2 cup per 6 lbs of body weight
• Introduce daily vegetables and gradually increase quantity
• Fruit daily ration no more than 1 tablespoon per 6 lbs body weight (because of calories)

What quantities of food should I feed mature adults? (over 1 year)

• Unlimited timothy, grass hay or oat hay
• 1/4 to 1/2 cup pellets per 6 lbs body weight (depending on metabolism and/or proportionate to veggies)
• Minimum 2 cups chopped vegetables per 6 lbs body weight
• Fruit daily ration no more than 1 tablespoon per 6 lbs body weight

What treats are best for my rabbit?

Most rabbits consider anything  hand-fed a treat, especially fresh veggies.  It is not necessary to feed a lot of sweet treats or commercial “treats”.  Rabbits should have no more than 1 tablespoon per day of any of the following:

• Fruits: banana, strawberry, blueberry, grapes, papaya, pineapple, apple
• Other: whole oats, whole peanuts, alfalfa cube