Posts Tagged ‘ faqs ’

What kinds of cages work best?

Rabbits were not designed to live on wire floors – they’re hard on their feet (which have no pads on them, like cats or dogs).  If you must use a cage with a wire floor, you need to provide your rabbit with a resting board or rug for her to sit on; otherwise she will spend all her time in her litterbox.

You can find cages with slatted plastic floors, which are more comfortable, or you can use a solid floor.  If your rabbit has a litterbox in their chosen “bathroom” corner, there shouldn’t be much of a mess to clean up.

What size cage is best?

Bigger is better!  A cage should be at least 4 times the size of your bunny – more if he is confined for a large amount of the day.  Be sure the cage is large enough to allow space for a litterbox, food and water bowls, etc, and still allow the rabbit enough room to stretch out completely.  It should also be tall enough that your rabbit can stretch up without his ears hitting the top.  If the cage has a wire floor, be sure to provide something solid, like a towel, newspaper, or board, for your rabbit to lie on.

What can I do to make my rabbit’s cage time more enjoyable?

A cage should be seen as the rabbit’s “nest”, a special place where he can feel safe and secure.  Make the nest enjoyable and he will enjoy being there, even when the cage door is open.  Keep it stocked with toys, a synthetic sheepskin rug, a piece of wood attached to the inside (like a baseboard), and when you put him to bed at night, a nice veggie or fruit snack.

Can my new bunny run around my house 24 hours a day?

An untrained rabbit probably should be kept in a cage while you’re not home to supervise and at night when you sleep.  Rabbits are crepuscular, which means that generally they sleep during the day and during the night but are ready to play at dawn and at twilight.  Be sure to let them out during the evening when you are home, and if possible, in the mornign while you get ready for work.

When your rabbit is better trained, and when your house (or the part that your rabbit will have access to) has been sufficiently bunny-proofed, your rabbit can be allowed free run of the home (or part of it) even when you are not home.  The more room your rabbit has to run around in, the more delightful you will find her as a companion.

What can I do to make my rabbit’s exercise time more enjoyable?

First, remember that your rabbit depends on you for companionship.  It is important to spend time with him, ideally on the floor where they can hop up to you when they choose.

Even when a rabbit has a lot of room to run around, he may still get bored.  A bored rabbit is often a naughty rabbit.  If you don’t make every attempt to provide your rabbit with lots of entertainment, then he will make his own entertainment in your carpet, behind your couch or under your recliner.

Toys not only aid in keeping your rabbit out of trouble, they also provide mental stimulation and exercise for your rabbit.  Some good toys to start with are:

• Hiding toys: cardboard boxes, tunnels, paper bags
• Chew toys: untreated hardwood, untreated wicker baskets, grass mats, cardboard paper tubes
• Toss toys: baby keys, many parrot toys
• Noisemakers: cat toys with bells inside, baby rattles

Can I let my rabbit run loose outside?

Because domestic rabbits have limited defenses for the many dangers found outdoors; it is best for the rabbit to be kept indoors.   However, a limited amount of time outside is usually safe if you:

• Always supervise your rabbit closely when she’s outside
• Make sure that the grass has not been sprayed with pesticides or fertilizers
• Check the yard for holes in the fence and poisonous plants
• Only allow your pet rabbit outside during the daylight hours

Is it true that rabbits can be litterbox trained?

By nature, rabbits choose one or a few places (usually corners) to deposit their urine and most of their pills.  Urine training involves little more than putting a litterbox where the rabbit chooses to go.  Pill training requires only that you give them a place they know will not be invaded by others.

What factors impact successful litterbox training?

the most important factor  for success is having your rabbit spayed/neutered.  This will reduce or eliminate their hormonal urge to mark their territory.  Also, older rabbits are easier to train than younger rabbits.  Young rabbits do not have the control and ability to learn that develops from age.  If you have a rabbit less than 6 months, be patient and persistent.  Older rabbits will usually learn in a matter of a few weeks.

What type of litter should I use?

It depends on what’s available in your area and what your rabbit’s habits are.  Some possibilities include:

• Litters made from recycled paper or other natural products.
• Since rabbits prefer at least some hay in their litterbox, some people use hay exclusively.
• Wood pellets designed for use in pellet stoves work very well and are very economical.

Avoid:

• Clumping litter because it can accumulate in your rabbit’s digestive tract and cause physical problems.
• Litters made of softwoods, like pine or cedar, as they are believed to cause liver damage.
• Corn, oat, and alfalfa based litters as the rabbit too commonly ingests them.

How do I litterbox train my new rabbit?

The basic approach is pretty simple.   Begin by restricting your rabbit to a small space, like their cage, for the first week or so.  Be sure to place at least one litterbox in a back corner of this space.  During the week, your rabbit will choose a corner for their “bathroom” area.  If that isn’t where you originally placed the litterbox, simply relocate the box to the rabbit’s selected area.  In a few days, the rabbit will associate the litterbox with their bathroom.  At this point, gradually provide more run space for your rabbit.  Be sure to supervise them carefully during this time, so any accidents can be corrected immediately by putting the rabbit back in their litterbox.  Start with small amounts of space and time and gradually increase both as your rabbit proves his/her good habits.   Reinforce consistently any accidents.  If your rabbit will have access to more than one room of the house, it is a good idea to add more litterboxes as their space continues to grow.  Eventually, your rabbit will demonstrate how many litterboxes are needed for the size of space he/she has.

What are the most common litter training mistakes?

• Letting the rabbit out of the cage and not watching him/her with undivided attention.  If the bunny does not get herded into the litterbox every time he/she urinates inappropriately, it will take much longer for him/her to understand what is expected.
• Being in a hurry.  Don’t rush your rabbit.  Each rabbit learns at their own pace.   If you supervise carefully, and reinforce their behavior, they will learn to use their litterbox.

What do I need to do to bunny-proof an area?

Because rabbits are very curious and often chew on things, their exercise area needs to be “bunny-proofed” by moving or concealing anything you don’t want chewed, especially electrical cords.  Common steps taken include moving house plants out of reach, covering electrical cords with tubing to prevent chewing, applying anti-chewing substances to woodwork and furniture, and blocking access to spaces under and around furniture, etc.  After you think you are done, let your rabbit help you identify areas you have missed.  Supervise closely until truly bunny-proofed.

Finally, never attempt to use training alone to keep a rabbit from something that can cause harm or death.  Toxic houseplants and electrical wires should be impossible for a rabbit to reach.  Counting on training or “the way she’s always behaved” with respect to such things is asking for trouble.